Monday, April 30, 2012
Faith is More Than Feelings
And they go out after the service and maybe they even cried a little or felt God's presence. But just because you feel God's presence, doesn't mean you have real faith. There's a big difference between faith and feeling.
James says faith is not mere sentimentality. You go out on the street and you see some homeless person who's destitute. They're poor, they're hungry, they're cold, and they need clothing and shelter. And you walk up to them and say, "Well, I'll pray for you."
That's not faith. Faith is compassionate. How many times did Jesus say, or it was said about him, "He was moved with compassion for people." Faith is practical. It gets involved in people's hurts. And when you see a need, you do something about it. That's real faith.
James 2:15-16 NIV
Suppose a brother or a sister is without clothes and daily food. If one of you says to them, "Go in peace; keep warm and well fed," but does nothing about their physical needs, what good is it?
*Taken from Rick Warren's Daily Devotional
Friday, April 27, 2012
Confident About the Future
Why should Christians be thei most confident people about the future?
"Therefore we are always confident and know that as long as we are at home in the body we are away from the Lord. We are confident, I say, and would prefer to be away from the body and at home with the Lord." (2 Corinthians 5:6, 8 NIV)
For Christians, death is a transfer, a promotion. It's on to better things; no more problems. You're not ready to live until you're ready to die. You don't know how to live until you're ready to die. Only a fool would go all through life totally unprepared for something that everybody knows is inevitable.
You're going to die - someday. If you've accepted Christ, then you're going to go to heaven. You'll be released from pain, from sorrow, from suffering, from depression, from fear: "He'll wipe every tear from their eyes. Death is gone for good - tears gone, crying gone, pain gone - all the first order of things gone." (Revelation 21:4 MSG)
Monday, April 23, 2012
Monday, April 16, 2012
Frequency Range
Please Note – The values below are marely guides, each mix is unique and individual so experimentation is advised.
Low Bass: Anything less than 50Hz
This range is often known as the sub bass and is most commonly taken up by the lowest part of the kick drum and bass guitar. Boosting blindly in this area without valid reference point can and will permanently damage most speakers, even PA systems. You have been warned!
Bass: 50-250Hz
This is the range you’re adjusting when applying the bass boost, although most bass signals in modern music lie around the 90-250Hz. A small boost in the upper ranges will add some presence and clarity.
Muddiness/irritational area: 200-800Hz
The main culprit area for muddy sounding mixes, hence the term ‘irritational area’. Most frequencies around here can cause psycho-acoustic problems. If too many sounds in a mix are dominating this area, it will become annoying.
Mid-range: 800-6kHz
Human hearing is extremely sensitive at these frequencies, and even a minute boost around here will result in a huge change in the sound – almost the same as if you boosted around 10db at any other range. This is because our voices are centred in this area, so it’s the frequency range we hear more than any other. If you have to apply any boosting in this area, be very cautious, especially on vocals. We’re particularly sensitive to how the human voice sounds and its frequency coverage.
High Range: 6-8kHz
This is the range you adjust when applying the treble boost. This area is slightly boosted to make sounds artificially brighter/’lifelike’
Hi-High Range: 8-20kHz
This area is taken up by the higher frequencies of cymbals and hi-hats. Boosting in this area requires a lot of care – it can easily pronounce any background hiss, and using too much will result in a mix becoming irritating.
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50Hz
1. Increase to add more fullness to lowest frequency instruments like foot, toms and the bass.
2. Reduce to decrease the “boom” of the bass and will increase overtones and the recognition of bass line.
100Hz
1. Increase to add a harder bass sound to lowest frequency instruments.
2. Increase to add fullness to guitars, snare.
3. Increase to add warmth to piano and horns
4. Reduce to remove boom on guitars & increase clarity
200Hz
1. Increase to add fullness to vocals.
2. Increase to add fullness to snare and guitar (harder sound).
3. Reduce to decrease muddiness of vocal or mid-range instruments.
4. Reduce to decrease gong sound of cymbals
400Hz
1. Increase to add clarity to bass lines especially when speakers are at low volume.
2. Reduce to decrease “cardboard” sound of lower drums (foot and toms).
3. Reduce to decrease ambiance on cymbals.
800Hz
1. Increase for clarity and “punch of bass.
2. Reduce to remove “cheap” sound of guitars.
1.5kHz
1. Increase for “clarity” and “pluck” of bass.
2. Reduce to remove dullness of guitars.
3kHz
1. Increase for more “pluck” of bass.
2. Increase for more attack of electric / acoustic guitar.
3. Increase for more attack on low piano parts.
4. Increase for more clarity / hardness on voice.
5. Reduce to increase breathy, soft sound on background vocals.
6. Reduce to disguise out-of-tune vocals/guitars
7kHz
1. Increase to add attack on low frequency drums (more metallic sound).
2. Increase to add attack to percussion instruments
3. Increase on dull singer.
4. Increase for more “finger sound” on acoustic bass.
5. Reduce to decrease “s” sound on singers.
6. Increase to add sharpness to synthesizers, rock guitars, acoustic guitar and piano.
10kHz
1. Increase to brighten vocals.
2. Increase for “light brightness” in acoustic guitar and piano.
3. Increase for hardness on cymbals.
4. Reduce to decrease “s” sound on singers
15kHz
1. Increase to brighten vocals (breath sound).
2. Increase to brighten cymbals, string instruments and flutes.
3. Increase to make sampled synthesizer sound more real.
Sunday, April 15, 2012
EQ Guide for Soundman and Musician
Please Note – The values below are marely guides, each mix is unique and individual so experimentation is advised.
Instruments and Vocals EQ
Kick Drum & Toms
Any apparent muddiness can be rolled off around 300Hz. Try a small boost around 5-7 kHz to add some high end.
50-100Hz ~ Adds bottom to the sound
100-250Hz ~ Adds roundness
250-800Hz ~ Muddiness Area
5-8kHz ~ Add high end presence
8-12kHz ~ Adds Hiss
Snare
Try a small boost around 60-120Hz if the sound a little too wimpy. Try boosting around 6kHz for that ‘snappy’ sound.
100-250Hz ~ Fills out the sound
6-8kHz ~ Adds presence
Hi hats or cymbals
Any apparent muddiness can be rolled off around 300Hz. To add some brightness try a small boost around 3kHz.
250-800Hz ~ Muddiness area
1-6kHz ~ Adds presence
6-8kHz ~ Adds clarity
8-12kHz ~ Adds brightness
Bass Guitar
Try boosting around 60Hz to add more body. Ant apparent muddiness can be rolled off around 300Hz. If more presence is needed, boost around 6kHz.
50-100Hz ~ Adds bottom end
100-250Hz ~ Muddiness Area
800-1KHz ~ Adds beef to small speakers
1-6kHz ~ Adds presence
6-8kHz ~ Adds high-end presence
8-12kHz ~ Adds hiss
Piano
Any apparent muddiness can be rolled off around 300Hz. Apply a vey small boost around 6kHz to add some clarity
50-100Hz ~ Adds bottom
100-250Hz ~ Adds roundness
250-1kHz ~ Muddiness area
1-6kHz ~ Adds presence
6-8kHz ~ Adds clarity
8-12kHz ~ Adds hiss
Electric Guitars
Apply either cut or boost around 300Hz, depending on the song and sound. Try boosting around 3kHz to add some edge to the sound, or cut to add some transparency. Try boosting around 6kHz to add presence. Try boosting around 10kHz to add brightness
100-250Hz ~ Adds body
250-800Hz ~ Muddiness area
1-6kHz ~ Cuts through the mix
6-8kHz ~ Adds clarity
8-12kHz ~ Adds hiss
Acoustic guitar
Any apparent muddiness can be rolled off between 100-300Hz. Apply small amounts of cut 1-3kHz to push the image higher. Apply small amounts of boost around 5kHz to add some presence
100-250Hz ~ Adds body
6-8kHz ~ Add clarity
8-12kHz ~ Adds brightness
Strings
These depend entirely on mix and the sound used.
50-100Hz ~ Adds bottom end
100-250Hz ~ Adds body
250-800Hz ~ Muddiness area
1-6kHz ~ Sounds crunchy
6-8kHz ~ Adds clarity
8-12kHz ~ Adds brightness
Vocals
This is a difficult one, as it depends on the mic used for the vocal. Apply either cut or boost around 300Hz. Apply a very small boost around 6kHz to add some clarity.
100-250Hz ~ Adds ‘up-frontness’
250-800Hz ~ Muddiness area
1-6kHz ~ Adds presence
6-8kHz ~ Adds sibilance and clarity
8-12kHz ~ Adds brightness
Friday, April 13, 2012
Focus on Doing God's Will
Thursday, April 12, 2012
Earthquake
Below is the video of Tsunami that happen in Gurney Plaza.... The car that push my the water to the middle of the road is my sister car...
Wednesday, April 11, 2012
Home Tone vs. Gig Tone
“home tone” vs. “gig tone”. This is something that experienced performing musicians know intuitively, but which often slaps newcomers to the live venue right in the face when they come up against it for the first time. To preface: there’s so much talk of “tone” these days, and so many guitarists are chasing it for all their worth, but more often than not this pursuit is undertaken in the isolation of a player’s living room, bedroom, home studio, or some other “home alone” environment. There’s nothing at all wrong with that, and these places are where we practice, learn, discover, and sometimes record the results. But honing our ultimate tone in these subjective environments can often lead to disappointment when we get out into the entirely subjective real world. Let’s find out why.
Among the net blogging tone hounds, there seems to be a lot of emphasis on guitar and amp sounds that are “smooth, warm, round, organic…” This might run to everything from the general preference for neck-pickup tones to a love of the round, thick, early breakup of heavily worn-in vintage speakers. Certainly any of these can bathe the ear in their juicy goodness when enjoyed sans distraction, and sound a lot more pleasant than anything that hints at a “harsh” or “cutting” sound. What the ear perceives from a solo electric guitar, however, and from a guitar blended into the mix of a full band are two entirely different things. In the latter, that smooth, warm, round tone too often can become… well, nothing at all.
The fundamental notes—meaning the pure, fretted notes, without any consideration of overtones (harmonics)—of guitars with 22 frets cover the frequency range from the low E at 82 Hz to a high D at 1,174 Hz. It so happens that the human voice has a range from approximately 85 Hz to 1,100 Hz. The human ear can detect frequencies from around 20 Hz (a further octave below the low E on a bass guitar) to around 20,000 Hz (or 20 kHz), but the average human’s hearing is biased toward detecting sounds in the midrange frequencies, which is to say it hears them more easily (they are perceived as louder), while upper-mid and high-frequency sounds will also jump out as being more noticeable within any blend, if not louder in the pure sense. Those midrange frequencies, it turns out, encompass the human voice as well as the guitar. As it happens, they also define a lot of what a drum kit produces (drum frequencies trample all over the spectrum), anything your bassist will create above his first octave or so, and anything a keyboard or horn section will produce. In other words, without some clever tone-shaping to distinguish the note production of each instrument, you can be left with sonic mush.
Meanwhile, thanks to the range of overtones (harmonics) that any plucked guitar string also produces, the guitar’s frequency range is actually extended far above the frequency of its highest fundamental note, and it takes up a lot more space in the sonic stew than just this chunk of around 1,000 Hz toward the center of the midrange. Put the guitar through an amplifier, especially a semi-distorted one (and most of them are, right!?), and these harmonics are accentuated further.
Revisit that “warm, smooth, round” tone that is so easy on the ear at home, and you’ll find that it achieves this quality by minimizing the aural spikes that strong harmonic overtones represent. Get it up on stage, though, amidst a drummer, bassist, vocalist, a second guitarist and maybe some keyboards, and this spike-free tone is often about as effective as a rubber crutch. Stand back from the stage, and—in a large, loud band, at least—such a tone will often be all but lost when everyone is playing, contributing more to the general sense of low-end presence and midrange body of the band’s sound, rather than ringing as a distinct part on its own. Of course, sometimes that’s exactly what you want, from a power-chord rhythm guitar part or the chunk-metal second guitar that’s backing another guitarists riffs and lead work. Also, if you’re playing in a small blues combo, with a more minimalist drummer and no extremes of volume, your smooth, rich tone might be delightful just as it is. In so many other scenarios, though, you’re likely to be hoping that your own playing will be heard for itself, and that your rhythm and lead parts alike will shine and get some attention out there in the crowd.
Often, a newbee to the live scene will just keep increasing their overall volume in an effort to get heard, which usually inspires the rest of the band to crank up, too, ultimately accentuating the mush. To get that tone heard properly, you’ll want to dial in some upper-midrange cut, some attention-getting shimmer in the highs (though without creating an ice-pick-in-the-ear for anyone in the first few rows), and a firmer low end. This might involve simply tweaking your amp’s tone and gain controls, or selecting a different pickup, but it might also require a total rethink of your rig between the current gig and the next. More drastic changes that can help might include switching to a firmer, punchier speaker, exploring a brighter guitar (or amp) with more harmonic sparkle… or you might simply need to put on some fresh strings. There isn’t room here to cover all the possible adjustments, and I’m mainly getting you to face up to the theory, but you’ll know the condition when you hear it.
It’s important to realize, too, that your tonal requirements will vary from night to night, room to room, and to remain flexible in all gigging situations. All of which is not intended to say that you should entirely scrap that warm, luscious, ear-candy tone that gives you goosebumps in the bedroom, just that you should prime yourself against being too precious about it out in the real world. When you get “your tone” set up and ready to go in sound check, then find it is lost in the ether once the band kicks in, don’t be too proud—or too stubborn—to change it. Dial some punch into the midrange, some cutting power into the higher frequencies, and some tightness into the low end, and get your tone out there to the ears that matter most to the live performance: someone else’s.
Taken from Gibson Tone Tips